Stollen Time

Anyone who has spent time with Martha and Norman at Christmas in the past 10 years will know that their huge plum tree is abundantly laden with beautiful and delicious red plums at exactly this time. The plums are great but they have to compete with so many other delicious and special foods that they are more decorative than eaten.

My favourite thing about Christmas has always been Martha's cooking, especially her stollen and caramel coffee cake, made only once a year. This year, since I am living in Hamilton and not just passing through on a flying visit, I asked if I could help her make the stollen. Christmas Eve was thus spent baking.

Martha uses her trusty old Joy of Cooking recipe with variations based partly on memories of Grandma Ada's version, partly on refinements developed over decades of making this annual treat.

The secret is in the butter: starting with one and a half cups creamed til light and fluffy with caster sugar. Meanwhile the yeasty base has been rising, made with blood temperature milk instead of warm water. Testing the milk's temperature with a drop on her wrist reminds Martha of Ada, not only baking but also testing baby bottles: there were a lot of babies feeding from bottles when Martha was a girl!

After the yeast base has risen, it gets punched down which is always fun. Then the butter and sugar are mixed in along with fresh high grade white flour. The dough is very soft and loose. We divided it into four balls and shaped and filled them one at a time.

There were two wreath shaped stollens, made by first brushing the rolled dough with melted butter (I told you there was a lot of butter), then sprinkling it with cinnamon sugar, then chopped nuts. One stollen had almonds and lemon zest and the other hazelnuts and orange zest along with raisins and glace cherries.

The dough is then carefully rolled into a sausage and shaped into a ring on a baking tray. We cut the ring part way through and all the way round, then turned each cut section on its side and finally decorated the top with cherries and almonds. The caramel coffee cake and rolls were made the same way except with brown sugar instead of cinnamon, and the roll was sliced apart and the rolls set into tins awash in butter and brown sugar with a decorative nut under each roll.

The shaped dough was put to rise in a hot car (there is nowhere in mum and dad's shady house that is warm enough to rise dough). When doubled, it was brushed with milk and then baked for half an hour until golden brown.

I didn't get any photos of the caramel coffee cake, but that's actually my favourite. When turned out of the pan it's presented upside down so the caramel and nuts are on top. It's irresistible!
We always have a slice (or three) of stollen on Christmas morning while opening the presents from under the tree. Thanks David, Penny and Louise for your lovely gifts. We missed you this morning.

Merry Christmas to all the Kellerman clan around the world. I hope you think of us downunder as you are sharing stollen or other traditions from Ada and Jess.

Give me pies, give me sweet little pies: Fudge Pie (Part 2)

This pie is from the other side of my family - the Southern side. 

 

In both name and location - my sweet Southern aunties have tasty many goodies!!  My auntie Valerie (Southern) Fulkerson shared this recipe with my mom Judy back in 1995.  It has since become a favorite of my brother Jeffrey, my mom and myself as well as my cousin Amy and, well, anyone who tries this pie!  The pie is very tasty and sinful.  It is good "naked" or with a meringue on top.  Whipped cream or ice cream will do in a pinch.  :)  Enjoy!

Fudge Pie

Ingredients:

• 6 tablespoons flour
• 2 cups sugar
• 3 tablespoons corn starch
• 3 tablespoons cocoa
• 2 cups milk
• 3 egg yolks – beaten
• 1/2 cup (8 tablespoons) butter
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• Pastry shell, baked (regular or graham crust)

Directions:

• Mix flour, sugar, cornstarch and cocoa in a medium saucepan.
  
• Gradually stir in milk.  Cook over moderate heat until mixture thickens and boils.  Boil 1 minute.
• Stir half of hot mixture into beaten yolks.  Add the yolk mixture back to the boiling mixture.
• Stirring constantly add butter and vanilla.
• Boil and stir constantly until very thick.  Remove from heat.
• Pour into pre-baked crust
• ENJOY!

(Kimberly & Amy enjoying Auntie Valerie's Fudge Pie, January 2009)

Playing with the Devil

I flew back to New Zealand a few days ago, after nine months of living in Australia. Mostly I was living places where it was impossible, or almost impossible, to bake (which shouldn't lead you to assume that Australia is without ovens, just that I was living a bit rough). Starting this blog was like paying attention to an itch I couldn't scratch, so when I got to Hamilton I asked Martha and Norman if I could bake a cake at their house.

Martha keeps a copy of the Devil's Food Cake recipe on the pantry door

I wanted to try making the Devil's Food Cake with the controversial substitution of buttermilk for sour milk, and mum suggested I make cup cakes to make the result easier to freeze or give away. Given the general lack of enthusiasm for cake eating among most of the people around me in Hamilton (Norman made a face like I was forcing him to eat worms), combined with the chocolate alternatives available everywhere I go (chocolate mousse, chocolate macaroons, chocolate bars etc etc) this seemed like a smart move.



I was very excited to use the big enamel bowl in which the batter is always mixed in Martha's kitchen. It has a groovy '60's sunflower pattern and really high sides so the batter doesn't slop even after you pour in the hot water at the end. As a child I learned to bake using that bowl (which was also our big salad bowl for years and years). It was a wedding present to Martha and Norman in 1965 and is still going as strong as their marriage, if a little chipped and scratched- the bowl, not the marriage!


I can't say I was very impressed with the buttermilk version of the cake, which seems to me a less moist than the sour milk version, possibly with a finer crumb. Also the colour wasn't the rich reddish almost-black brown I remember. So, these buttermilk ones were a bit bland in colour, texture and taste. I'm going back to sour milk for sure next time.

A few years ago, I learned that using less sugar will stop the top of the cake from cracking in the oven, so I always use 1 1/2 cups instead of the 2 called for in the recipe. So these cupcakes have lovely smooth tops.


If you haven't checked back on my original Devil's Food recipe post, Martha added a detailed historical caption to the photo of grandma Ada and there's been a lively debate in the comments section. Worth a look if you are interested.

Pantry Shelf Refrigerator Rolls (aka SweetRolls, Parker House Rolls, Crazy Carmel Rolls)

This is one of the classic Kellerman recipes and a versatile one at that.

This is from Ada Ruth's kitchen and was perfected over time and many, many bakings. Ada Ruth found this recipe in a local newspaper in the mid 1960's. It replaced another yeast-dough recipe she used because she and Grandpa Jess liked how easy it was to make, that it used potato flakes and it tasted better! For me personally, this is my mom Judy's specialty. It really doesn't feel like a holiday if we don't have her carmel rolls, sweet rolls and parker house rolls - all made from the same dough. I was lucky enough to learn how to make this from my grandma Ada Ruth in my teens. However, I've only made it a couple times because it is difficult to do it bette than my mom. (note: For a yeast dough it is very easy!)

PANTRY SHELF REFRIGERATOR ROLLS

1 ½ cups dry instant potatoes 3 eggs

½ cup dry powdered milk 2 packages active dry yeast

¾ cup sugar 2 cup all purpose flour

1 tablespoon salt 5 or 6 cups all purpose flour

¾ cup salad oil

3 cups very hot tap water

In a large mixing bowl stir together the potato flakes, powdered milk, sugar, salt and oil.

Pour in the hot water and stir well.

Beat in eggs.

When cooled to lukewarm, add yeast and 2 cups of flour.

Beat for 5 minutes with electric mixer.

Let the sponge set until quite light and bubbly, about 1 hour in a warm place.

Stir in about 51/2 to 6 cups flour. Avoid adding too much flour; keep dough on the soft side.

Turn out dough onto a floured board and knead lightly until dough is smooth and elastic, about 6 to 8 minutes.

Place dough in a lightly greased (buttered) bowl, turning once to grease surface.

Cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. Punch down.

At this point, dough may be refrigerated for later use.

Recipe makes 6 dozen dinner rolls, or 3 dozen dinner rolls and 2 ½ dozen cinnamon rolls.

To make, simply shape, let double, bake in well greased pans for 12 to 15 minutes at 400˚F.

Parker House Rolls

Take ½ of the prepared dough and roll to slightly less than ½″ thick. Cut with a biscuit cutter, brush with melted butter and fold in half. Place in well greased pan 1/2″ apart and cover with plastic. Let double. Bake 12 to 15 minutes at 400˚F until golden. Remove from oven and brush with butter.

Cinnamon Milk Buns

Take ½ of the prepared dough and roll into a rectangle, 15″ x 9″ x 1/3″ thick (approximately). Spread with 2 tablespoons softened butter and sprinkle with ½ cup sugar and 2 teaspoons cinnamon. Roll into a long roll, starting on the long side, as for a jelly roll. Cut roll into 1″ slices. Place, do not crowd, in a 13″ x 9″ greased pan*. Cover and let rise until doubled, about 40 minutes. Bake in a preheated oven for 25 to 30 minutes at 375˚F.

• For a stickier and softer bun try pouring over ½ cup evaporated milk just before putting in oven.

• *For Carmel rolls, pour ½ cup melted butter into bottom of pan, (cast iron skillet is good) to cover bottom, sprinkle with light brown sugar to cover butter lightly. Place cinnamon rolls on top and continue as above

  Turn out on lined tray, carmel topping will be on top.

Frost the rolls while warm with a thin confectioners’ sugar frosting dribbled over the tops of the rolls.

You may add pecans bits, raisins or red and green cherries for the holidays, or a brown sugar glaze for variety. This dough is also excellent for coffee rolls or coffee cake.

Ada's Devil's Food Cake

Grandma Ada Ruth gave this Devil's Food Cake recipe to Martha, who made it as her signature cake through most of my life. It is one of my most valued family heirlooms. I don't know where Ada got this recipe, does anyone else? Does anyone remember her baking this one?

This cake is virtually fool proof, responds well to an apparent infinite number of variations, stays moist for over a week if not entirely consumed sooner and is super easy to make. The secret is the sour milk (1 tbsp of vinegar in a cup then fill it up with milk and leave in a warm place til it starts looking like runny yoghurt) and I suspect this is responsible for the slightly reddish tone of the dark chocolate and the amazing, unique smell when you stir in a cup of hot water right at the end.

The cake is so moist it is delicious without being iced/frosted: just a sprinkle of icing/confectioners sugar makes it look elegant. And a dollop of whipped cream or vanilla icecream on the side for extra indulgence. However, any good chocolate icing turns this into a special occasion cake.

Extra-sinful variations I have tried and enjoyed have included:
- stirring cherries into the batter at the end
- replacing vanilla with brandy
- making in a bundt (tube) pan, or as cupcakes, and then hollowing out the middle and filling with chocolate mousse (there are still people who remember that version fondly from some 20 years ago!)


Grandma Ada Ruth's Devil's Food Cake

3 cups plain flour
2 cups white sugar*
6 tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
1/2 cup cocoa
2 eggs (beaten)
1 cup sour milk
1 cup cooking oil
1 tsp vanilla

Sift the dry ingredients into a big bowl.
Mix the wet ingredients together.
Stir wet into dry until completely combined.
Stir in 1 cup of hot water.
Bake at 190/375 degrees until the top springs back (about one hour).

*I use half a cup less which stops the top of the cake from cracking, and is still sweet enough for my taste.

This portrait of Ada Ruth Taylor was sent to Jess when he was in France. At the same time portraits of ther first two babies ,Ruth Jean and Martha Taylor, and her Mother-in- law were taken and they were combined on a single card , small enough to fit in a breast pocket. I seem to remember the card said, ' Greetings from Home'